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Home   /   Journal   /   Page 2 of 3

Journal

The Waistcoat is your new Spring style hero

The Waistcoat is your new Spring style hero

February 23, 2020

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Melanie Press Collection Rik Rak Cardigan in On The Hill Magazine

Melanie Press Collection Rik Rak Cardigan in On The Hill Magazine

January 21, 2020

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Anna Murphy, Fashion Editor of The Times features MP Waistcoat

Anna Murphy, Fashion Editor of The Times features MP Waistcoat

December 07, 2019

The Times waistcoats Anna MurphyAnna Murphy, Fashion Director at The Times: 4.12.19

So that was thinking No 1. Then came thinking No 2, aided and abetted by one of my favourite British boutique brands, Press of Primrose Hill. Why not forget the jacket and just wear the waistcoat bit of the equation to give shape to one of this season’s ubiquitous and oh-so wearable soft blouses? Or layer under that colourful trouser suit, in a contrast neutral? Press has recently introduced an absolute beauty of craftsmanship, made by a traditional family tailoring firm in Italy that has worked for big boys such as Burberry and Gucci. It’s a double-breasted waistcoat, cut to sculpt in a way that would have impressed even Mountbatten, and available in black wool or velvet, in grey herringbone and in blush corduroy (from £299, pressprimrosehill.com). The quality is sublime. It’s a real investment buy.

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langer chen mayhill coat

We're Loving: The Eco-Chic Coat by Langerchen

December 03, 2019

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Vogue - London Welcomes a New Press Primrose Hill Boutique By Mark Holgate

Vogue - London Welcomes a New Press Primrose Hill Boutique By Mark Holgate

November 12, 2019

London Welcomes a New Press Primrose Hill Boutique With an Intimate Opening

MARK HOLGATE

November 12, 2019

https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/press-primrose-hill-boutique-opening

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Anna Murphy at The Times, is loving our British lambswool cardigans

Anna Murphy at The Times, is loving our British lambswool cardigans

September 04, 2019

FASHION

september 4 2019, 12:01am, the times

Anna Murphy: It’s September and I am loving my woolly cardigan

anna murphy

A V-necked cardi remains one of my favourite things — the swotty schoolgirl I was hasn’t gone away

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By all means call me boring — but this outfit makes me happy. Or, to be more precise, this cardigan. If it says back to school to you, well, that’s understandable. It’s totally class of whenever, albeit finessed by way of the pretty ribbon trim. This is early September after all.

What does it say about me that a V-necked cardigan remains one of my favourite things? That inside every front-row fashionista there hides a swotty schoolgirl who, back in the day, liked to dress more like a schoolboy? (Trousers, always trousers back then. A navy unadorned version of this cardi, nicked — sorry, borrowed — from my dad.) Perhaps not. But inside this one, certainly.

Cardigan, £325, pressprimrosehill.com
Cardigan, £325, pressprimrosehill.com

So even though I will be packing the first of three show-season suitcases tomorrow — it’s New York — and even though said valise will include a harlequin-patterned jacket and a jewel-encrusted emerald-silk shell top, among other outré affairs, nothing lies closer to my sartorial special place than a knit like this. Apart, perhaps, from the crisp white shirt I also wore in 1A.

Odd that at the time I felt a bit cross about my school uniform. Even odder that when I was in my twenties my recherche du temps perdu went farther for a while: I regularly wore a tie — as in a necktie. That stopped when I exited the loos at work and was asked if I had finished cleaning them.

I still have my collection of ties. A couple of mad kipper affairs. Some faux old-school stripes. I could never have worn my actual school tie, not only because it was horrible (navy and gold), but also because I may be weird, yet am not — I insist — that weird. Sometimes I look at my ties and think: “Mmm, maybe.” And then I think, “Maybe not,” and console myself by putting on a cardigan like this one.

Not that this particularly lovely iteration has a price that, at £325, is school-uniform appropriate (pressprimrosehill.com). That’s because it is made to order and is British through and through. The lambswool is sheared and spun in Yorkshire by a family business founded in 1766, and speckles of undyed yarn are mixed with the dyed fibres to deliver a soft hue. (Talk about attention to detail.) The cardigan is made in Leicestershire and sold by the small London-based boutique fashion operation Press Primrose Hill.

It was the brand’s founder, Melanie Press, previously of labels such as Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs, who conjured up this holy grail. Overplaying it? Me? Of cardigans? Her vision? “I love a borrowed-from-the-boyfriend classic. There’s nothing more effortless than something we can snuggle into over all our fashionable stuff,” she says. Or, indeed, over our pseudo school uniform stuff. There are two equally covetable versions, one beige on beige, the other burgundy on grey (£290), and a black take to come next month.

Some of you will understand why this cardigan is as costly as it is. I know because I regularly hear from Times readers about how pleased they are to be introduced to small, responsible British brands, and because I also hear from those brands as to what a phenomenal — often game-changing — response they get from you as a result. These labels are charmingly wrong-footed by how many orders they receive, by how far afield those orders are flung (there’s a superlatively well-dressed reader in Singapore, to give one example) and by how orders start coming in minutes after an article goes online, even if that’s 1am UK time.

I know that others of you will find this price preposterous. This, I would posit, is because it has been all too easy since the introduction of the fast-fashion production model in the 1990s to lose sight of how much buying well, in terms of materials and working practices, costs. If we are serious about being more responsible consumers, we need to become better at understanding what buying consciously costs; better at spending more on less — far, far less. And actually, whether you like it or not, that more may well be far, far more.

A new book, Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothesby Dana Thomas, is a sobering read, especially for a fashion journalist whose inevitably hypocritical position is to advocate the aforementioned less/more equation while flagging up what’s new and affordable.

“In the United Kingdom in the 1980s,” Thomas writes, “one million worked in the textile industry; now only one hundred thousand do.” And “all the while apparel [fashion] and textile jobs globally nearly doubled from 34.2 million to 57.8 million”. Which brings us to the next part of the equation, the people doing the work in developing nations, of whom “fewer than 2 per cent . . . earn a living wage”. That’s before we get on to the environmental costs. Read my review of Thomas’s book in the paper this Saturday if you need further elucidation as to what the true notion of paying a high price might be.

I think fashion is too important a form of self-expression and self-empowerment, too great a source of joy and life-enhancement to be disavowed. We just need to become more sane about how we enact our embrace.

Brogues, £260, grenson.com
Brogues, £260, grenson.com

Back-to-school shoes
One of my favourite brands when it comes to buying British has long been Grenson. Its shoes aren’t so much built to last as to outlast. I can’t remember how long ago I bought my Emily brogues like these ones, but I have worn them and worn them (£260, grenson.com). The leather looks better than ever and I haven’t had them resoled, although I am reassured that I can when I need to.

One thing you should probably know: these are the most comfortable shoes I have worn. The sole is super-cushioned as well as super-light. (And if it gets dirty you scrub it clean.) One more thing you probably should know. I used to wear brogues to school too. Go figure.
Instagram @annagmurphy

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Anna Murphy, Fashion Director of The Times

Anna Murphy, Fashion Director of The Times

June 05, 2019

The best dresses for summer 2019

Who says frocks need to be difficult? Our fashion director picks her favourites from the new season

Anna Murphy

June 4 2019, 5:00pm, The Times

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Melanie Press is the Small British Label That’s Thinking Big With NYC Pop-Up

Melanie Press is the Small British Label That’s Thinking Big With NYC Pop-Up

May 10, 2019

Melanie Press Is the Small British Label That’s Thinking Big With an NYC Pop-Up

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Easy Summer Dressing @ Press - Shop the look

Easy Summer Dressing @ Press - Shop the look

May 03, 2019

May 2019: we are mostly wearing these cropped cotton twill athleisure joggers in over-dye black ( instore only ), or navy blue:

https://pressprimrosehill.com/products/melanie-press-cabel-pant

 

with the Jodie shirt in silk twill, printed with our very own hand drawn Toile de Jouy with portraits of Brody - the Cavalier King Charles, and his brother Haven.

 

https://pressprimrosehill.com/products/printed-silk-shirt

 

 

 

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Press on denim

Press on denim

July 06, 2018

Here's some wisdom on choosing the right denim jeans for you:

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Watch: Press Primrose hill on Frock Advisor

Watch: Press Primrose hill on Frock Advisor

July 06, 2018

Frock Advisor interview Melanie Press about London style and shopping

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We're in Wellness Warrior GOOP's North London Style Guide

We're in Wellness Warrior GOOP's North London Style Guide

May 03, 2018

"This is a favorite among Primrose Hill natives. Tucked into a small street, you have to ring the doorbell to get in. Once through the door you’ll find a quiet and intimate shop that offers plenty of APC and Raoul, Vivienne Westwood, and Humanoid".

Gwyneth Paltrow

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